dewalt 770 deluxe power shop manual

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dewalt 770 deluxe power shop manual

Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience. It took us half a hour to finally learn how to move the yoke. (The seller is selling it for a very old owner, who is said to have owned it since it was new.) It turned out that one needs more than to loosen the lever, but the lever has to push on a bell to disengage a certain pin that fixes the yoke. But we still have not been able to loosen and turn the bevel of the saw, to have the arbor pointing against the table. It moves a little and is not frozen. There is something, may be a pin, that fixes the saw’s bevel angle. What does it mean by “pull” and then turn the saw. There does not seem to be anything broken.Maybe these or some other of the 18 DeWalt RAS manuals and bulletins may give you some useful information. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by. Sold the saw a short time latter. The manual should help you. If it works like ours did, you must give the handle that unlocks it a quick, hard jerk into the bell in order to pop out the locking pin. Good luck. I believe your pivot point and unlocking device is located just below the handle on this saw. If I remember right, the pin is attached to the locking clamp. Pull once to unlock and pull a second time to disengage the pin. Then rotate the saw to the desired angle. The pin will index at common angles. I think I have it right this time. I picked up the saw today. Looks like a reasonable tool. We had to use a pair of pliers. I suppose a 11 amp induction motor direct drive is still respectable power. See the results and get an inside view of the process. Sign Up Now. If you do not already have it,If you find the information on this webDonations can be made does not provide support or parts for any machinesPlease remember that safety standards haveIt is up to the individual user to useThe Please choose a different delivery location.

Our payment security system encrypts your information during transmission. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Please try again.Please try again.Please try again. OverviewI have collected this information for many years and have found the information they contain to be priceless in using and setting up the machines properly. I believe this manual will be a valuable resource of knowledge that will provide a lot of helpful information that is often hard to find. My manuals are not photocopies. I maintain a high standard of quality in my reproductions. Most of the manuals I reproduce look better than their originals. I have professionally digitally edited every page, and removed stains, wrinkles and handwriting. All of the manuals are printed on thick white paper to withstand shop wear and tear; they are then comb bound with heavy cover pages so they lie flat on the workbench. Then you can start reading Kindle books on your smartphone, tablet, or computer - no Kindle device required. Register a free business account To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I've noticed positive comments on the old Dewalt machines (and some not so positive). What is the difference between the Dewalt 740 and 770 models. What should I look for when inspecting one for purchase. Any comments or advice would be very welcome. Thanks Peter The best ones (and any of them can be worn or worn out) is the older cast iron models. Those are the ones that are really well built.

I am not familiar with the model you mentioned. I have heard the numbers several times. One of the best ways to ID the better models it where the crank hand is. If it is on the front of the base of the saw or on the top of the column at the back that is better models. I grew up with one and I prefer one. They can do a lot of things, not just cross cuts. Even so mine is a cross cut machine 97% of the time. I bought my own, a DeWalt 770, after I got married and used it quite often. I inherited my dad's DeWalt 740 and I still own both saws. I only have the 740 set up right now. Other than color I don't know of any differences in the two saws. When properly set up they are very accurate. My first project was a set of stereo speakers out of Walnut. 45? miters that fit perfect without any adjustment. I still have those speakers and the miters are as solid now as the day I made them nearly 40 years ago. I use mine for cross cutting mostly now, but I do use it for dado work. I just feel much more comfortable pulling the blade through the wood than pushing the wood through the blade. I don't think you'll go wrong getting either model and once set up properly it should give you years of service. Karl I'm going to have a look at a couple of these machines in the next week or so. Chuck, that looks like a good one, but it would be a bit of a run, maybe 12-14hours each way. Hey, maybe Larry could bring it here on his tour. I'll let you know what happens. Peter Does 2 hp, 120 v sound right. I assume these are not universal motors.The only way the brake worked on mine was when I changed the wiring to run on 220v. When you turn the switch off it stopped PDQ When it was wired 110v it worked OK but took a bit to wind up to speed. You can still get pdf manuals online if you do a Google search. I'm going to have a look at a couple of these machines in the next week or so. I'll let you know what happens.

PeterI am slowly reverting to hand tool only status, but this is one of the power tools I will have a hard time stepping away from. It's my go to machine 90% of the time. Crosscuts, rips, angles, compound miters, circles.what's not to love? I can't help you with price or shopping as I used mine for years before it was actually mine. My Uncle had it in his shop but he was scared of it and it went unused. So Whenever I needed to whack off a board from off the sawmill, I would use the saw. Finally he just asked me if I wanted it. I can't tell you the difference between the 740 and the 770, but from experience I know you cannot go wrong with the 770. Good luck on your quest for one. Based on the radius, a new location list is generated for you to choose from. Pick up only. Thanks.Runs very smooth. With Stand included. Pick up ScarboroughHaving said that, I believe it needs a cleaning in and around the armature as it runs great but seems to lose power under load. I'm clearing up my shop and I just haven't had the time to tinker with it to rectify this issue. I would like to see this go to someone who would make use of it, so price will be set at a reasonable offer.Pls call 807-577-1643Unlimited angles are possible and repeatable. You can use saw to rip to width as well. I'm moving and have no room for this wonderful tool.Cut off ripping, mitering, Dadoing. Made of solid cast ironVery good condition and well cared for.Excellent condition.One of the first brought to Canada in the 1950's and used as a travelling demo model. It would be perfect for the beginner hobbyist woodworker on a budget or tool collector. Solid bench with four storage drawers and dust catch back panel and drawer.Thank you for looking.Please leave message and will get back to you as quickly as possible. thank youIt's simply too large, strong, and heavy for me. If you have any questions let me know and I'll respond immediately.Have 10 blades worth 100 ea never used.

Also have dewalt radial arm saw for 100. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. By using this site you agreePlease refer to this Policy for more information onSimply enter your model number (DW720, DW729, PP3310, etc.) into the search bar above to find the replacement spare parts you need for your DeWalt radial arm saw. As a self-taught craftsman, I’ve frequently needed manuals and books to help myself set up or operate complicated machines. That is why I started this service with my family- to make hard-to-find manuals easier for other craftsmen to obtain. I wanted to make the best quality, printed manuals to work with in a shop. After all, I remember the day when they didn’t even have computers. We make some ofThe duck call pictured has over 1,117 individual pieces of wood in it. You can learn more about our shop on our About Us page, or That is why we started Ozark Shop Talk Blog to give back to the many people that have helped us learn. We are self-taught machinist and woodworkers, and we had to use the How-To Books, and information in the manuals to learn ourselves. To start viewing messages,Does anyone know if this was a good saw or if it was one to avoid. I searched OWWM and someone had said that Mr Sawduster recommended this saw but I don't know. Thanks Think the one Mr Sawdust liked was a GWI. I've got both (by dumb luck) The 7770 appears to be a good saw but the GWI is a monster, I love it. It's a relatively late model saw and suffered from lots of downgrades, such as plastic and sheet metal parts where cast iron had previously been. The exception is the motor, which is much more powerful than the older 110v saws. If the 7770 is cheap enough, it's worth buying in order to get the excellent motor. That's what I did. That motor will fit onto some of the older, better saws. Not all of them, though. If you're interested, I can help you sort through what will work.

It's a relatively late model saw and suffered from lots of downgrades, such as plastic and sheet metal parts where cast iron had previously been. If you're interested, I can help you sort through what will work. It has sat in his garage. What other saws will this motor fit. I've also checked out the Delphi forum, lots of good info there. You could always use it as a stop gap until you find something better down the road. Heck, you might be perfectly happy with it as is. Mine was rusty and had some broken parts. That was OK since I just wanted the motor, but I never tried the complete saw to make a comparison with my older MBF. To answer your question about compatibility, the most common DeWalt with in interchangeable motor is the 925. It's actually the motor yoke which determines interchangeability. The 925 has all the desirable features from the old yoke design, but happens to fit the newer motor. I believe that 925s were made in '59 and '60. They are more squarish than the older saws, but still all cast iron. They also have the motor switch on the front of the arm, which is nice. There are a bunch of less common DeWalt RASs which are probably interchangeable as well. If you come across one and aren't sure, the guys over at the other forum can probably give better advice. Please let us know if you get the saw. Old RASs are positively addictive. Rick Potter The table looks like I will need to replace it. The carriage? seemed a little stiff at first but is smoother after I worked it a little. The manual states not to oil the bearings or rail. Taped to the manual was the original receipt for 499.99 Nov 1987. Will try to post pics.It really zings now and runs so smooth that I can stand a penny on edge on the arm, but it would be nice to have a bit more power and blade choices. It also came with the original boards on it, and it's a nice saw that is a complement to the DeWalt. That is probably the last really good DeWalt made before consumerism ruled.

I think that definitely applies to the newer DeWalt RASs with square arms. I seem to remember reading that the earliest (pre 1964) square arm RASs actually had some improvements over the older saws, such as beefier bases and less finicky table adjustments, without giving up any of the good features. My saw is an MBF (round arm) with a 925 yoke and 7770 motor, so I can't say for sure if a round arm behaves differently from a square one, but I doubt it. If I had the room, I'd get a 925 just to see. The giveaway prices on craigslist make me crazy. It really zings now and runs so smooth that I can stand a penny on edge on the arm, but it would be nice to have a bit more power and blade choices. It also came with the original boards on it, and it's a nice saw that is a complement to the DeWalt.It even has the blade guards and the key. Cool. I'm jealous of the 3HP motor. The generally accepted fix for stuck roller bearings is WD40, more to free them up than to lubricate them. You don't want anything that sawdust can stick to. If you don't have one, you might want to check out the Mr Sawdust Radial Arm Saw book. It was written by one of the original demonstrators for DeWalt saws in the '40s and '50s. It tells you all about how to build a proper table, accurately set up the saw, etc. Good stuff. At that price, if you decide you don't like it, you can probably double your money. When you build your new table, set up the saw completely before cutting into it. If I may make a couple suggestions. 1: When you follow whichever instructions on setting it up.skip the part on dishing out a furrow for ripping. Lock that baby at 90 degrees and keep it there. I use mine for crosscuts only. If you have to.make a jig to do angle cuts, and save your table. 2: I see your saw came with the guards for the blade. Keep at least the one on the left side.

The way to use the guard with this kind of setup is to make the fence (mines about 4' long on the left), install it a few inches to the right side, and cut a slot through it. Then, move the fence over to the left till the guard slips through the slot. Tighten the fence, and cut the blade slot. This gives you a nice tall fence that the guard does not have to climb over, as well as a zero clearance blade slot. Finally.install the tape. There are other ways to do it, but this one works for me. Rick Potter. I live in central Utah so I could drive up to Salt Lake or order over the internet- Thanks.The manual is here: and here: (6.5 MB) I would think you could get the parts from Black and Decker. Once you have the part number in hand from the manual, I am sure it is a matter of locating it via black and decker. Kelly Craftsman also used this same type saw by black and decker (i.e decal clone) Check with Sears. Craftsman also used this same type saw by black and decker (i.e decal clone) Check with Sears. We're sorry. This part is no longer available. No alternate or substitute part has been recommended by the manufacturer. We're sorry. This part is no longer available. No alternate or substitute part has been recommended by the manufacturer. Sorry but like you I am hitting dead ends. Kelly Sorry but like you I am hitting dead ends. Kelly Login to post DeWALT DW721 RADIAL ARM SAW Type 1 I cant find how to adjust the angle of cut.When you see a picture of your saw, open the link and contact the person who posted the picture on the internet. Dewalt Radial Arm Saw Should be very helpful for you. DW 125 radial arm saw Here is another download that may help too. DeWalt Powershop Handbook. You only need to raise it enough to acces the blade screw. Unplug the saw. Raise the blade arm. Raise the guard to it's upper position. On the left side of the blade, just forward and up slightly from the blade screw is a screw for the guard bracket. Loosen, but do not remove this screw.

Once it's loosened the guard can be raised farther exposing the blade screw. As for the blade wrench, this should have come with the saw, there is a slot in the base for storing the wrench, on the back left side, it slides in and out for safe keeping. If you have misplaced the wrench the DEWALT part number 608563-1How do I change the blade. Bolt hits on a guard that covers the arbor. On a DW713 combination saw. Lower guard will remain raised due to the position of the guard bracket screw. 4. Depress the spindle lock button (Fig. 3) while carefully rotating the saw blade by hand until the lock engages 5. Keeping the button depressed, use the other hand and the wrench provided to loosen the blade screw. (Turn clockwise, left-hand threads.) 6. Remove the blade screw, outer blade clamp, and blade. The inner blade clamp may be left on the spindle. Installing a Blade Does any one know where I can purchase? Answer questions, earn points and help others. As I learn more about my AMF DeWalt 1030, I plan to add material to this page, hoping that it may give a few pointers to others following the same track. Granted, at the moment, that's not much. But the depth of knowledge on the forum is astounding, and it's perhaps the most helpful forum I've ever had the chance to frequent. And now, the story of how it all began.At the top of the search results for my small town, there wasn't a handheld circular saw, but there was a massive machine. It loooked like it could cut some wood. I had no idea what a radial arm saw was, but soon discovered that these machines have a strong following, especially older DeWalt models. I drove out to meet the engineer who was parting with his DeWalt for lack of space in his small shop. When he showed me the arm that moved up and down and side to side, and the motor that could swing in two planes, I fell in love. We loaded the saw onto the pickup, and I took it home.

From what I could understand, this kind of saw, once popular, had fallen into disuse with the general public. It had been displaced by table saws, the very same saws that radial arm saws had once been slated to replace, and by the more recent sliding compound miter saws. One reason for this shift, I read, was that radial arm saws had a reputation for being dangerous. But aren't all saws inherently dangerous. And what would be more dangerous, moving wood over a blade that you don't always see (as with a table saw), or pulling a blade over stationary wood? But if you learned to properly use your radial arm saw, I kept reading, it was as safe as, if not safer than, other powered saws. Well, I certainly wanted to learn to use my saw properly, so that was a relief. I don't know if I'm attached to my fingers, but my fingers are attached to me.When I saw that my saw's engine was fifty years old, I was less happy with my purchase than I had been a couple hours earlier. Over two hundred dollars for a fifty-year-old saw, is that really a bargain.Actually, 1959 had perhaps been the apex in the history of DeWalt radial arm saws.It wouldn't swing a twelve-inch blade like models that some pros might prefer, but for my needs, eight to ten inches was probably the perfect size. I was pleased to read that after a proper reconditioning, one can expect an old DeWalt to last another fifty years. This makes me feel as though I have bought an old Rolls Royce!Since the motor is supposed to go another fifty years, you can expect a perfect purr. One time I recorded my motor and became worried because I heard little irregularities here and there (25-second sample): So I ordered all the equimpment to do that: bearings, bearing puller, and other tools I'd never heard about.What had happened, I realized, was that the time I made the recording, I must have failed to tighten one of the clamps. Next time I get the chance, I'll record the motor as it now sounds.

The idea is that in order to turn your saw into a precision instrument, you need a table that is extremely flat and rigid. At first I had worried that I would have to build a whole table, complete with legs, before even starting to use my saw. As it turns out, building the Mr Sawdust table is complex enough.To make the table rigid, Mr Sawdust sandwiches steel bars between the plywood. Nowadays there is an alternate design using unistrut channel. This is what I used as it was easier to make. Here are places where I have bought parts so far. Many of them were recommended on the forum.For my AMF 1030 round arm, Charles recommended the 9-inch version of the blade. At the time of writing, Charles gave a discount to members of the forum. This extremely friendly gentleman can be reached in the USA at 1-800-733-7111 x314 and advise you about the right blade for your saw. Forrest shipped the blade to New Zealand, along with some literature and a green cap which I love—even though it was made in Bangladesh and added to the shipping charge. According to Mr Sawdust, the WW1 triple chip profile blade is the only blade you will ever need for your radial arm saw. Little did I know that the overall cost was going to explode. But that's okay, because restoring a radial arm saw is a labor of love.When it arrived, I realized that it didn't ship with a butterfly bolt. I ordered three from McMaster-Carr. This is the best-looking butterfly bolt. On the Original Saw website, you can see that this is an interesting outfit that continues to produce quality, larger-size radial arm saws (they start at twelve inches and two horsepower). For these red balls, forum members have also recommended a company called MSCDirect. For overseas shipping, try this company. I've ordered mine and am not sure how it will fit. I'll have to cut it for sure. The salesperson told me it was a 6mm sheet, which is the recommended thickness for the skin.

It didn't occur to me that the sheet was much thicker until I got home.Kent from the forum recommends the Nachi 6203LL and Nachi 6201LL bearings. I ordered those and received Nachi bearings labelled 6203-2NSE9 and 6201-2NSE9. Lynne explained that 6201-LL is a generic reference, whereas 6201-2NSE9 is the corresponding Nachi product code.Accurate may also have an equivalent if you are prepared to take the bearing's measurements. For some reason, the manual lists different part numbers for the centered (22009) and eccentric (101426) bearings, but they look the same to me.You can fiddle with other tools, but these are an ideal fit for the blade assembly. Tried ordering from McMaster as recommended on the forum—they are said to have many quality components and tools—but they wouldn't ship to New Zealand.Steel wool from Mitre Mega (New Zealand's version of Home Depot), Brasso and mineral turpentine from the supermarket.Fortunately, in New Zealand, all power outlets are switched. The benefit is that if I go away for a while and someone has access to the workshop, it makes it a little harder for someone to turn on the saw and make some damage. Here is the key switch I ordered from McMaster. Note that the key is only a square socket, not a security key. Below there's a picture of the switch connection.I have not tried it myself but saw picture of a 1030 round arm painted with it, and it was gorgeous. Without his patient guidance, I don't know what I would have done. After everything was back in order, Scott even drew diagrams of the 1030's wiring for both 110 and 240 volts. Scott kindly allowed me to host the diagrams here, so feel free to download them below. It goes without saying that the diagrams come with no warranty whatsoever—use them at your own risk. As Scott says. There are just too many possible variables with a fifty-plus year-old machine for me to guarantee the accuracy of the drawing for every frame 245 out there in the wild.

I think these diagrams are a real treat for all of us in whose garages one of these beautiful DeWalt 1030s somehow happens to roll. Please follow the links to download them. Schematic for DeWalt 1030 Radial Arm Saw (110 Volts) Schematic for DeWalt 1030 Radial Arm Saw (240 Volts) This is the first of the adjustments in Mr. Sawdust. It deals with the bearings inside the arm, also known as the rollerhead bearings. It took me ages to understand this adjustment (two months from the first time I looked at it to the time I got it done). There are two main methods, and it took me a while to put it all together. The method I used is the one on page 14 of Scharff, where the adjustment is done while the carriage is still in the arm. In Mr. Sawdust, you take the carriage out.Another complication was that I'd never heard of a set screw, a term often mentioned in the instructions. Then I couldn't find the Allen at the bottom.First, remove the end plate from the arm. Move the carriage to the front and look at the bearing on the right. This opening can only be accessed when the yoke is turned a certain way.Now comes the adjustment. To do this, tighten the screw on the right of the arm so there is no risk that the carriage will fall out of the arm. Turning clockwise with the Allen (as you look down on it) will tighten the bearing. There is only a hair between tight and loose. When testing if it's too loose, you'll need to loosen the screw on the right of the arm (don't forget to tighten it again when you fiddle with the wrenches again). Press your left thumb against the bearing, push the carriage backward with your right hand. If you can keep the bearing from moving while the motor travels backward, the bearing is too loose. Then screw the end plate back on. Move one quarter of a circle counter-clockwise around the table so that you face the side of the arm that has the rip scale. The rear bearing sounds harder to adjust, but it's not.

In fact it's easier because there's no risk of dropping the carriage from the arm.The trouble was that on my saw, the right end of the arbor bumped into the top of the yoke (it was about half an inch too long). I didn't know what to do about this. Would I have to cut the arbor. Would I need to disassemble to motor and somehow shift the pieces along the arbor?DeWalt used to sell a number of attachments that could be mounted on the radial arm saw for shaping, boring, sanding and other operations. The adaptor was probably designed for some of these attachments. Unlike the left side of the arbor, there was no hole for an Allen wrench, no surface on which to grip. It worked! For the record, the adaptor required half-inch, 20-thread nuts (right-handed thread).I tried to remove the pin sticking out of the nut on my saw, thinking that it was the cotter pin. Luckily, people on the forum explained to me that the cotter pin must be missing and pointed to me the groove where the pin is supposed to go. On page 18, Scharff explains how to adjust the bevel clamp handle so that you can't rotate the motor when the clamp is engaged. For this job, you need to apply pressure to two half-inch hex heads at the same time (a bolt and a nut). On the picture, I am using a socket wrench and a plain wrench.Then, in theory, you adjust the bottom bolt then tighten the top nut again. Maybe I am doing something wrong, because I am finding this to be a very finicky adjustment. Eakes says that when the adjustment is right, with the clamp engaged, if you hold the motor in your hands you shouldn't be able to rotate it at all. But when I get the clamp that tight, I also find the motor hard to rotate when it is unclamped. On the other hand, when I get the motor easier to rotate in the unclamped position, I am also able, with force, to rotate the motor when it is clamped. So far I haven't found an easy middle! If the blade is not square to the table, here is the adjustment.

First, lock the bevel clamp and engage the bevel latch. Unscrew the bevel's AMF plate. On the photo I also unscrewed the dial gauge but there is no need. If you look where the AMF plate was, you will see three hex socket bolts. Ignore the middle one. Position yourself above the motor so you have good leverage. Being careful not to cut yourself on the blade, tilt the motor until the blade is square to the table. Tighten the hex socket bolts and replace the AMF plate.So I was really excited to mount the frame on casters. Now a gentle push does it. On the downside, I haven't found a good system to block the table, as there are no brakes on those wheels.The gorgeous red goes well with the knobs. If you get the same, You might want to add some thin hex nuts and washers to your order.I don't know if the blade can be restored to its prime condition (the carpenter may have cut through a number of nails), but it sure can be cleaned. Over time, pitch (resins turned black from the heat) accumulates on the blade. On the forum, Paul recommended using a biodegradable cleaner called CMT Formula 2050 Blade and Bit Cleaner. It's not available in New Zealand, but Simple Green cleaner is, and it too has a good reputation. Some people use mineral spirits or turpentine. I've read cautions against using a file, oven cleaners or anything else that could start dislodging the carbide teeth from the blade, as it will soon be rotating at high speed.On one side of the switch, I hooked up the green and black wires. Same on the other side, without crossing. Your wire colors might be different. The connection should be pretty similar regardless of which switch you pick up from McMaster. Scroll up or click the link for part numbers and a picture of my key switch.At the end of his eleven-week stay, two days before he left, the traveling carpenter from Berlin fried the saw. I don't know how he did it.He was ripping at the time, and he must have kept pushing and pushing and pushing despite the smell.